Summer in Hokkaido is a season of extraordinary abundance. At Raku Suisan, guests can dine at three distinctive restaurants—Yukiai-tei, which specializes in innovative cuisine, the Japanese restaurant Irifune, and the teppanyaki restaurant Kaiō. Each presents thoughtfully crafted courses that showcase the finest ingredients from Niseko and across Hokkaido.

The philosophy of Yukiai-tei is innovation. Free from the constraints of conventional culinary genres, ingredient pairings, and cooking techniques, the chefs strive to create original flavors inspired by seasonal produce and carefully sourced ingredients selected by their own discerning eyes. Their goal is to offer dishes that embody the spirit of ichigo ichie—a once-in-a-lifetime encounter that can never be replicated.

The star ingredient of summer is sea urchin. As the fishing season opens along the coasts of Otaru and Shakotan, exceptionally fresh and high-quality sea urchin arrives daily. At each restaurant, the chefs interpret this prized ingredient through their own unique sensibilities, creating dishes in which sea urchin takes center stage.

At Yukiai-tei, the featured creation is Sea Urchin, Young Bamboo Shoots, and Nanatsuboshi Rice. While sea urchin risotto is often prepared with a cream-based sauce, this version is finished with a delicate broth made from bonito and kelp. Rich, sweet sea urchin is paired with tender himetake bamboo shoots, whose subtle flavor and pleasant texture add depth to the dish. Firmly cooked Hokkaido-grown Nanatsuboshi rice brings the elements together, creating a composition that is both refined and deeply satisfying.

At Irifune, the seasonal highlight is Fried Kasube with Sea Urchin. This dish combines the intensely sweet sea urchin harvested during the summer season with kasube, a Hokkaido specialty made from skate. While kasube is often appreciated for the crisp texture of its cartilage, this preparation uses the rare cheek meat, prized for its tenderness and gentle elasticity. Lightly fried in a delicate batter and topped with fresh sea urchin, the dish is finished with a silky sauce made from bonito and kelp stock. Each ingredient enhances the others, while aromatic suji nori seaweed and a touch of fresh wasabi provide elegant accents. It is a luxurious expression of summer’s most celebrated delicacy.

At Kaiō, guests are treated to Sea Urchin and Overnight-Dried Scallop. Cooked swiftly on the teppan, the crisp phyllo pastry provides a delicate contrast to the rare-cooked scallop from Betsukai and the fresh sea urchin. The scallop’s natural sweetness and supple texture pair beautifully with the rich, creamy depth of the sea urchin. Corn purée lends gentle sweetness, while black pepper adds a subtle kick, creating layers of flavor that unfold with every bite.

Sea urchin appears on the menu throughout the season, yet never in quite the same form. By continually changing the preparations and presentations, the chefs ensure that even long-stay guests can discover something new each day—a celebration of summer’s fleeting bounty and the creativity it inspires.

Inspired by the Greens of Summer

After dinner, one of the quiet pleasures of a stay at Raku Suisan is spending time in the intimate bar that opens discreetly in the lobby each evening. Savoring a cocktail in this tranquil setting is a moment of pure indulgence. During the summer season, a special cocktail inspired by Niseko’s vibrant landscapes makes its appearance: the Niseko Spumoni.

While a traditional Spumoni is typically based on Campari, this original creation substitutes it with Midori melon liqueur. The glass, filled with a crystal-clear green liquid, is garnished with a single basil leaf, an elegant touch that immediately draws the eye. The cocktail is a visual expression of Niseko’s lush summer greenery.

As the glass is raised, the fresh aroma of basil gently perfumes the air. On the palate, the cooling sweetness of melon unfolds alongside the bright acidity and subtle bitterness of grapefruit, while tonic water adds a refreshing layer of complexity. Together, these flavors create a crisp and invigorating drink that captures the essence of Niseko’s verdant summer landscape.

With an alcohol content of around five percent, it is light and easy to enjoy. Refreshing the body and calming the mind, it offers the perfect accompaniment to a summer evening. A single glass is enough to leave a lasting impression of the season.